July 1996
GD
STAR*TEcH
Journal
... continued from previous page
prefer abrasives because I find them easier to con-
trol and there is less mess.
Now lay down a length of bare wire along the clean
trace and across the break. Double it if the trace is
wide enough. Holding the wire in place with a
clamp or tweezers, we run a generous bead of sol-
der along the length. If there is a component lead
sticking through in your neighborhood, loop your
repair wire around it to help keep it in place for
soldering. Make sure you didn't solder two adja-
cent traces together.
For some cracks, simply sweating wire pieces to
the board traces as we just did is enough, but some-
times we need more strength. One trick you can
use if you have the room is to drill a hole on either
side of the break about a half inch from the break
so you wind up with two holes an inch apart cen-
tered on the break. The dimension isn't important,
that is just the size I seem to use the most.
Now take a piece of bare wire a few inches long
and thread it through the holes so the middle of
the wire is centered on the break. Twist the ends
together and twist them until they cinch the wire
up very tight. Too tight breaks the wire and you
start over.
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This is the same technique we use with the little
twisty tie on the bag around a loaf of bread. It is
the bailing wire approach. Solder the twisted knot
and trim off the excess wire and you have a pretty
strong repair. This trick works even where there
are no traces, but if you can do it along a healthy
sized trace, the solder will make the patch even
stronger.
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If your break is on the CPU board or somewhere
there are a lot of small traces close together, we
need to be extra cautious. With numerous small
parallel traces we can't always lay a wire down
across the break for each trace. There may not be
room, and the danger of shorting two traces to-
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