Star Tech Journal

Data East Simpsons Lost Balls
& Other Pin Tips
Losr BALLS
GREEN
Yes, the ball gets stuck in several places. Two so
far that I've found (and probably a dozen more
that I haven't!). Naturally, the solution to most
dead spots is the proper pitch on the table (see
the Quick& Dirty Inclinometer in the April, 1990
issue of S,tTJ). If that doesn't help, then we have
to resort to field modifications.
This mod is easier. Using a pair of channel lock
pliers, bend the inboard rail down slightly and
the outboard rail up slightly. This directs the ball
down into the plastic channel and prevents the
upper saucer from kicking the ball straight to the
dead spot. Also, bending the outboard rail in
slightly will help too.
I see the spot that was referred to in the January,
1991 issueofS::JtTJandagreethatthedesigners
did goof a little, but where they goofed alot is on
both the yellow AND the green ramps. Let's take
them one at a time.
YELLOW RAMP
It has happened a number of times, that the ball
will jump on top of this ramp (down by the kicker
area) and get stuck between the ramp and the
glass.
Fax
The solution is easy. Use a hacksaw and cut out
the Inboard Rail (top rail only) approximately 1 /
4" from the metal hoop supports (see Figure 1).
This does not adversely affect the looks of the
game, and does reduce service calls. Be sure to
clean up the cuttings when done, it will ruin the
table finish otherwise.
YELLOW
GREEN RAMP
Again, we have had numerous service calls on
the ball getting stuck on top of the plastic by the
lower red "Bart Lamp" (see Figure 1).
OPTO
Fax
PACKING
~
While we're on the subject of pinball, here's
another tip. Space the opto coupler approxi-
mately 1 /32" from the board. Solder it down and
then apply the silicone around the base. I use a
match stick for this, so I can "pack" a little under
the edge of the opto coupler. So far I've only had
to replace one that was done like this and it was
a bad coupler, not a mechanical failure.
As for the E-clips, if it's really an annoyance, you
can thread the ends of the studs (6-32, 8-32 or
whatever it takes) and try using an aircraft (self
locking nylon insert) nut. I haven't tried this
personally, but I have seen it done once. This
should help
ADD TO THE "STICKY FLIPPER CHECKLIST"
Clean the insert and plunger with TFE or an-
other spray solvent and wipe clean and dry. Any
oils present will be cooked into a gum that slows
them down and may present a fire hazard if
sufficient heat builds up in the coil assembly. In
fact, it would be nice if the manufacturers would~
put that on the mech diagrams in the manuals.
How about it, guys?