Star Tech Journal

Issue: 1996-July - Vol 18 Issue 5

STAR*TEcH
July 1996
Journal
... continued from previous page
from the main crack or break
need attention.
trical circuit paths. Of course,
some repair techniques do both
at once.
We do this the same way we stop
a crack in an auto windshield.
Follow each crack to
where it ends and drill
.
.
a small hole there. This
JU rnrer WI re
strain relief hole will
a:::ross m rner
prevent the crack from
going any further. Hon-
est.
tra::e
PC ooard
m rner bro ken off
From time to time I find I can't
repair something so that all the
parts remain where they started.
In these cases I can find an un-
used area nearby on the PC
board, drill a couple small holes,
and mount the part in a new spot
with wire jumpers back to the old
neighborhood.
Sometimes I even make a small
auxiliary circuit board to hold a
few components. This I can
mount with sticky foam or some-
thing. (I keep a collection of hob-
byist/ experimenter PC boards
from Radio Shack for the pur-
pose.) It is easy enough to cut a
home made board to size with a
fine saw like those X-acto makes
or even a hacksaw. I use a Dremel
tool.
REPAIR TuCHNIQ,UES
Cracks need to be stopped. Even
little ones that shoot off away
Naturally you want to
avoid drilling through
components on the
other side of the board.
If necessary, tempo-
rarily remove the of-
fending component.
Make sure your relief hole
doesn't slice a circuit trace in two.
Sometimes shining a bright light
through the board makes cracks
easier to see.
I use a Wahl cordless soldering
iron with the PC drill attachment.
We need to restore the electrical
paths, but we might as well do
double duty and make the elec-
trical repairs part of the structural
repairs, as much as possible any-
way.
Solder is used as a bonding agent
and as an electrical conductor,
but it doesn't have a lot of
strength. Try bending a piece
back and forth in your hands, and
you will find it breaks fairly
quickly. If you just bridge a crack
with a blob of solder, it will break
for the same reason.
Use wire to cross the gaps and
cracks. I save the inch long leads
I trim off caps and resistors when
I install them. I keep a supply in
a little jar next to my soldering
iron for this purpose. Otherwise,
get a roll of solid conductor wire.
To lay down a patch, we must first
prepare the surface. Remove the
conformal coating, that green
twist up t: ight:
to pu 11 cra:::k. to0% her
if ·····························•
----------
f'""-""-"--,,----,,--·.,,_.--,,_.--,,..im••,e•m,...........
••,.••••••"• ;.
: ........................... ; +···············,,' ·•1
.;. ..............
1i;;; ii iii ii iii ii iii ii iii..
• • T;;;;;; iii iii ii) I~.
• ..... ;;; ;;; ........ I....
·••------------------------------------------------··•1
• ...... I .................... ..
• bai Ii ng wire• repair
I find it real handy, but any drill
will do. Use a small bit. I keep a
=#=56 drill bit in my PC drill. That
is a lot smaller than a 1/16". If
your hardware store doesn't stock
small number size drill bits, try a
hobby store. They're cheap.
stuff, to expose the bare copper
trace. Nothing works better than
the fiberglass brush eraser (and
don't get the fibers get in your
skin) but you can also scrape the
coating off with a razor blade or
X-acto. There are solvents, but I
... continued on next page
July 1996
GD
STAR*TEcH
Journal
... continued from previous page
prefer abrasives because I find them easier to con-
trol and there is less mess.
Now lay down a length of bare wire along the clean
trace and across the break. Double it if the trace is
wide enough. Holding the wire in place with a
clamp or tweezers, we run a generous bead of sol-
der along the length. If there is a component lead
sticking through in your neighborhood, loop your
repair wire around it to help keep it in place for
soldering. Make sure you didn't solder two adja-
cent traces together.
For some cracks, simply sweating wire pieces to
the board traces as we just did is enough, but some-
times we need more strength. One trick you can
use if you have the room is to drill a hole on either
side of the break about a half inch from the break
so you wind up with two holes an inch apart cen-
tered on the break. The dimension isn't important,
that is just the size I seem to use the most.
Now take a piece of bare wire a few inches long
and thread it through the holes so the middle of
the wire is centered on the break. Twist the ends
together and twist them until they cinch the wire
up very tight. Too tight breaks the wire and you
start over.
HAPP CONTROLS
ENERGIZE YOUR GAME ROOM!
OPTICAL GUN
► Steel reinforced
hydraulic rubber hose

Will replace industry
standard guns
► Gun holster
also available


► Simply drops into exist-
ing mounting pattern
► Fully harnessed for both
Japanese and American
shifters
DRIVING CABINET
► Turns both old and new
This is the same technique we use with the little
twisty tie on the bag around a loaf of bread. It is
the bailing wire approach. Solder the twisted knot
and trim off the excess wire and you have a pretty
strong repair. This trick works even where there
are no traces, but if you can do it along a healthy
sized trace, the solder will make the patch even
stronger.
driving games into top
earning games

Cabinets can be
attached to create dual
driver cabinet

Dimensions: 80" H x
30"W x 60"D

Weight: 475 lbs.
Call or Fax for
our Catalog
If your break is on the CPU board or somewhere
there are a lot of small traces close together, we
need to be extra cautious. With numerous small
parallel traces we can't always lay a wire down
across the break for each trace. There may not be
room, and the danger of shorting two traces to-
... continued on page 13
. . . . . . . . . . . . ... . . . . . . . .. . . . . .. . .. . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . .

Download Page 10: PDF File | Image

Download Page 11 PDF File | Image

Future scanning projects are planned by the International Arcade Museum Library (IAML).

Pro Tip: You can flip pages on the issue easily by using the left and right arrow keys on your keyboard.