Star Tech Journal

Issue: 1992-September - Vol 14 Issue 7

STAR* TECH Journal
September 1992
Also, some early power supplies
have a -300 volts circuit installed
on them that was used in the first
two electronic pinballs from Wil-
liams, Lucky 7 and Hot Tips. You
often find shuffie alleys equipped
with this power supply even
though that section is not used.
Warning: That circuit although it
is not used is still active on the
power supply and can pack quite
a jolt if you lay your fingers across
the back of the board, especially if
the machine was just turned off.
Be very careful when handling
these powers supplies! The parts
that hold the voltage are C9 and
Cl0. Discharge them to be on the
safe side.
COMMON FAILURES
~he most common failure in
these Power Supplies is the dis-
play voltage. You will usually
lose one of the 100 volts supply
rails. This is commonly caused by
a bad or arcing display glass. In
general practice, I would check a
few parts out and judging from
their condition determine what
course to take.
You want to check the rectifier
diodes (D3 & D4). These rarely
goes but should be checked. Next
check the filter capacitors out.
They are the lOOufd at 150 or 160
volts. If they are reading bad or if
the ends of them seem swollen,
change them.
If you still don't have the problem
solved, troubleshoot the voltage
regulation section. You will usu-
l""""J.ly find the problem there. The -
l. 00 V is com prised of a mirror
circuit of the + 100 V rail. This
circuit is relatively easy to
troubleshoot.
One note, if one or two of the
semiconductors are blown you
should change 4 parts. For ex-
ample, if you find Q3 and Z4 bad
you should change them as well
as Q4 and Z3. In high voltage
circuits, many times a problem
won't show when reading parts
with a meter but when you put
the High Voltage to them they
will breakdown and this could
cause your new parts to go up in
smoke. Changing the four parts
together is "cheap insurance".
There are about a
50/50 mix of Cpu's
out there with
good and bad
those solid black ones. If you re-
move a Rom from the socket and
the socket is one solid piece not
allowing you to see the board be-
neath it then you have the bad
ones. These are usually so bad
that you could remove the Rom
with your fingers very easily. Re-
place them, they are garbage.
The other common failure on the
Cpu is the barrel cracked connec-
tors, follow the procedure above
for fixing that. Be careful around
Jack 1J3 (upper left), it is easy to
bridge the blanking line connec-
tion to ground at that point. This
will cause the game to have no
displays.
Always check your battery holder
and if need be replace it along
with a new set of alkaline batter-
ies. This will keep it running for
years to come.
sockets.
If you should get a failure in the
+5 volt circuit it is very simple to
fix. It is either a bad diode, bad
filter cap or a bad regulator.
Troubleshooting this section is
easy!
Any other voltage that originates
from this power supply for the
most part goes straight through.
The System 3 through 6 Cpu
board is dependable. The most
common failure is not electronic
but mechanical. The Rom sockets
(and possibly others) are usually
at fault.
There are about a 50/50 mix of
Cpu's out there with good and bad
sockets. The bad sockets are
The driver board is a source of
many of the problems you will
run into. These problems can in-
volve solenoids, lamps (Cpu con-
trolled) or switches.
In the solenoid sections you will
often run into transistor failures.
Troubleshooting this area is done
using standard techniques but
can get a little deeper when a bad
transistor takes out the pre-
driver and IC before it.
When replacing any IC's, it is
recommended that you first in-
stall a good quality socket. This
makes any future repairs alot
simpler. If an output transistor is
bad, it is also good practice to
change its associated pre-driver
just in case it took some damag-
ing current. The pre-drivers
STAR*TECH Journal
September 7 992
~
(2N4401) are very inexpensive
and again it is cheap insurance.
The switch matrix is a simple
circuit to work with. Ther•~ are
two IC's for output and two for
input. They usually don't fail but
may should some other voltage
within the machine come in con-
tact with a switch line.
The Cpu controlled lamps on
shuffle alleys have a habit of be-
coming intermittent. This is usu-
ally caused by the 27 ohm resis-
tors unsoldering themselves
from the Logic board due to ex-
treme heat. Watch those babies
when the machine is on, they will
take a layer or two of your skin off
if you should touch them!
The best fix I have found for them
is to replace them with 27 ohm 5
watt cement type resistors. They
are more suited for the job and
are not run near their operating
limits. Occasionally you will run
into a bad driver transistor in the
lamp circuits but this is not
nearly as common as the r,esis-
tors burning up.
Connectors on the driver board
are prone to the same barrel type
cracks as all the other boards are.
Along with this they will often
develop bad connections at the
interboard connection where the
driver plugs together with the
Cpu.
The best way to check this is to
hold the driver board up to a light
and look through the connectors,
if you see any pin that has a wide
space, replace the connector.
The Williams part number for
this connector is 5792-090661-00.
It is good to have plenty of these
on hand. They are often shot after
10 or 15 years of plugging and
unplugging. They cost a little
over a dollar a piece and it may be
worth changing all of them for
dependability.
The display driver looks rather
complicated at first but trouble-
shooting it is not as hard as it
looks. A good cleaning of all edge
connectors is always in order and
just the cleaning will solve many
of the intermittent problems.
Most older shuffles
used "old technol-
ogy" Roms that
run hot as a fire-
cracker.
If the problems go beyond this
they can usually be figured out
logically. Many outputs of the
display driver are shared by more
than one display glass. If you see
a digit or segment out in more
than one place you could usually
figure what area is causing the
problem by back tracking it on
the schematic. You will see what
displays have the same output
and usually be able to figure out
the bad IC or transistor from
that.
A common failure on the display
driver is one or more burnt l0K
ohm 1/2 watt resistors. This will
cause segments to be missing and
is generally caused by a bad dis-
play glass. You could unplug all
the glasses ( except for the one on
the driver itself, of course) and
often find a glass dragging down
the signal to other glasses. Plug
them in one by one (carefully!)
and if other displays begin to
show failure symptoms you could
bet that the glass you just
plugged in is no good. Replace it.
The Sound board is usually
trouble free but if trouble does
arise it could be traced down usu-
ally without too much difficulty.
If you get no sound, check the
fuses. The Sound board has its
own fuses separate from the main
power supply. They feed low volt~
age A/C to a bridge rectifier so
that the board will be supplied
with +12 and -12 volts. The +12
volts also feeds the input of a
standard three pin +5 volt regu-
lator to run the IC's.
A common failure on the older
sound board is the Rom. Most
older shuffles used "old technol-
ogy" Roms that run hot as a fire-
cracker.
The audio amp does go on occa-
sion but can be easily checked by
touching the wiper of the volume
control pot with your finger, if it
hums when you touch it, it is
probably fine.
The interface IC's are 4050
CMOS chips and they are not too
tolerant when it comes to surges~
and other spikes. A common
symptom of a bad interface IC
will show up usually as the sound
board making the wrong sounds.
Sometimes it will cause the board

Download Page 15: PDF File | Image

Download Page 16 PDF File | Image

Future scanning projects are planned by the International Arcade Museum Library (IAML).

Pro Tip: You can flip pages on the issue easily by using the left and right arrow keys on your keyboard.