Star Tech Journal

Issue: 1991-March - Vol 13 Issue 1

Willia:ms Funhouse Multiball
Lost Ball Checklist
Pat Lawlor
Williams Electronics
Chicago, Illinois
SOLUTION
A) Ball goes into the upper hole
and "Quick Multiball" is awarded.
The coil for the kickout is a 26-1200 and is
powerful enough that if 3 balls were stacked it
could clear the tunnel. Check 2 things:
B) 2nd ball is shot onto playfield;
original ball does not kick out.
C) 2nd ball is shot into lower hole
above right slingshot and just sits
there.
D) Players have complained that
sometimes no balls are available
for play. (Fortunately, the game
will fix itself given enough time.)
E) All of the switches under the
playfield were checked seem ok.
CAUSE
In this instance, it sounds like the second ball
got to the right underground kickout before
another switch was made. This means that 2
balls are now resting on the underground
kickout plunger. The game should, at that point,
wait. go into ball search and kickout both balls
from underground.
1. Check that the alignment of the
kickout coil and plunger is
straight in line with the kickout
chute. If one is skewed to the other
there might be a loss in velocity.
2. Check the plastic chute that
leads from the top of the playfield
tunnel entrance (and trap door
entrance).
Where this chute goes into the
metal kickout chute there should
be a single 1 / 16" washer between
the chute and the playfield on the
side CLOSEST TO THE PI.AYER.
(This is the last screw attaching
point for the plastic chute). I doubt
it's missing, but it is better to be
safe than sorry.
This washer lowers the chute at its
drop off point into the metal
kickout, so that 2 balls cannot get
caught in the final bend of the
chute --thus kicking out one but
leaving the other trapped IN THE
BEND.
So ... what happens is MULTI-BALL, a ball i
missing, its not anywhere to be found, etc .. etc.
Atari Hard Drivin'
Disabled Brake
Ken Erisman
Jaguar Vending
Baltimore, Maryland
SYMPTOM
I had a Hard Drivin' that looked like the brake
was stuck in the on position. I went into the self-
test and disabled the brake but it still didn't work
correctly.
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•· •
CAUSE
As it turned out, the -22v supply only measured
-12v.
SOLUTION
u · · · · · • •
It was a fuse in the back of the game on the
bottom right hand side. Sure glad I didn't have to
take that brake assembly apart!
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NOTE
A good indicator of this common problem is that
when in self-test, all controls will oscillate up
and down.
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Troubleshooting/
• • •
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