Star Tech Journal

Issue: 1986-May - Vol 8 Issue 3

May 1sas (7J
Let's face the fact that the industry only
has one universal video garre test fixture
and rrost of you find the thought of buying
one too extravagant. 'lhere is a lot to be
said about doing your own board repair but
tam here to talk specifically about
pinball boards.
'lhe best test fixture you have available
to you at this time is the garre itself.
Everything you need is present within the
garre. 'lhe only additional item required is .
the proper knowledge and tools to do the
job. I know it is somewhat awkward but
that is all you have to work with right
now.
Most of you know the board replacement
method of troubleshooting a pinball garre.
'lhis method could be used to identify the
problem board. '!he one major difference
would be that you would atterrpt to repair
the problem board once you have identified
the problem. 'lhis will take rrore time in
the older systems because of the nunber of
boards. 'lhe new systems make it necessary
to realize which section of the board is
at fault. You can obtain a better
understanding of the new one board systems
if you are familiar with the old nultiple
board systems.
'lhe new systems are really the sarre basic
system laid out on a single board. You now
have a sound section instead of a sound
board or a solenoid driver section instead
of a solenoid driver board etc.
Many problems with pinball garres are
fairly sirrple to repair. You can identify
them by a problem that originated on the
playfield and caused a portion of the
board system to fail. For example, a
shorted solenoid on the playfield can take
out a driver transistor or rrore conponents
in the circuit. 'lhis type of problem is a
good place to start if you are new at the
repair level. ~ing is learning and if you
keep at it you will eventually learn what
you need to know.
WI'E: last rronth, I wrote an article about
the first AOIB show and it appears I
received some incorrect information. Data
Fast is WI' offering~ FU MASTER,
ca-tMAN[X) and SHOOIOUT as conversion kits.
STAR*TECH Journal
:Euwer 5ua>ly conversions
By Janes Beck
Greater Southern Distributing Co.
Atlanta, GA
Everybody is doing it lately, converting
those broken down DRAGON'S IAIRs. Why not,
take out the old boards and the disk
player and there is plenty of room for the
new boards and an RF cage. Unfortunately,
the National Power Technology power supply
used in most of the DRAGCN's LAIRs can
only supply +5 volts at a few amps, and
doesn't have any +12, -12, or -5 volts.
~n•t despair and don't go buy that $50
switching regulator. For a few dollars in
parts, and a little patience, the existing
power supply can be rrodified to rival the
specs of any switcher you could buy.
First, let's get a couple 100re
the +5 section. Olange R2 to a
watt resistor, and R3 to a 560
watt resistor. Now you can get
out of the +5 supply.
amps out of
0.1 ohm 5
ohm 1/4
5 to 6 amps
Next let's get some +12. Pin 7 of Jl has
+25 volts unregulated on it. Mount a 7812
regulator to the chassis and run the +25
and a ground to it. 'lhere is our +12
volts. Need -5 and/or -12? Pin 8 of Jl
conveniently supplies us with -25 volts
unregulated. Cnce again the 3 terminal
fixed regulator comes to the rescue. A
7905 and/or a 7912 will do the job nicely.
When all of this is done, you have a power
supply that can supply +5 volts@ 5 amps,
+12@ 1 amp, -5@ 1 amp, and -12@ 1 amp.
'!his is adequate to run just about every
conversion kit on the market today for the
cost of a few dollars and about 1/2 an
hour of labor.
Next 100nth, I will cover methods of
obtaining negative voltages from a supply
that has only positive outputs.
STAR*TECH Journal
1he Player
By John 'Root' Pilarchik
Pennsauken, NJ
(A monthly analysis of pinball nachines,
currently on location, from a players
point-of-view.)
HIGH SPEED by Willians
Here's a nachine that when you first start
playing, it looks great; plenty of
flashing lights and good sound effects.
However, after three hours of non-stop
play, this player came up with a total of
two free games! One on score and one on a
rather hard-to-find special.
When you do get the special by dropping
the ball down the bottom right side,
though, you can really pick up on your
game and in addition, have your ball kick
back up into play. This is a definite
plus.
This game is fast, has plenty of lights
(play with shades on, if you have them),
and rrost of your ramp shots put the ball
back on your flippers in record time. The
key shot on this game is the center ramp
which you can only make with the top third
flipper.
This player was not inpressed with the
flippers. It seems as though the bottom
two flippers are set slightly wider apart
than nornal, because nany a ball is lost
by going down the middle with no chance to
save it. Even when the ball is up in the
top half of the nachine, you can spot a
gutter ball heading your way.
The playing field is set up with good
action whereby you can work your way up to
three balls on the field at the same time
plus your times values, free ball and
special.
HIGH SPEED is definately a rroney game and
I'm sure the operators will be pleased
with this one. This player suggests a post
put in between the two bottom flippers, to
help keep the m.urber of balls going down
the middle to a reasonable anount.

Play on ... Root.
****1~****
May 1986
(BJ
lofe/AMI Amplifiers Intermittent Audio
By Erwin H. Boot
Autonatic Music Company
Tasmania, Australia
During the past few rronths, we've suddenly
experienced call-outs for intermittent
audio cut-outs on Rowe/AMI amplifiers, in
particular those in the models R-82
(¾ODHUE, etc) and R-83 (CI.J\REM)Nl', DISCO,
etc).
In each case, the problem was a faulty
mute relay. By tapping around the amp, the
fault could be brought on, or fixed. In
the earlier models, the relay is a plug in
type, part #Fl2751 (#200-12751). This same
relay was used as mechanism control relay
on, for example, the R-80 (FLEE'IWX))), etc)
and previous, and also as a mute relay way
back to the CADETI'ES (01M-l, vintage about
1968!). The part# then was Fll574A
(201-11574 or 2-11574-01). This same relay
was also numbered Fl3261 at some point in
history.
There is nothing exotic about this plug-in
24VDC relay, and I would suggest that 1 or
2 in each service van or kit is rroney well
spent.
On the R-83 amp (and naybe later models, I
haven't checked) the relay is a solder-in
type, available as #301-07882 from
Rowe/AMI or off-the-shelf at good
electronics shops as National NF2 (with
suffixes if you like), 12V PCB solder-in
relay. Again a good idea to have in stock.
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