Star Tech Journal

Issue: 1985-October - Vol 7 Issue 5

S T A R * T E C H
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3) Pin Cutters - Hand-held cutters
with a tip small enough to fit between
the pins of an IC but tough enough to
easily cut the pins.
4) Needle Nose Pliers - A small pair
of pliers specially designed for board
work.
S> Solder - Good quality activated
rosin core.
6> Alcohol - A bottle of rubbing
alcohol.
7) Brush - A hard-bristle tooth brush
will do.
Once you have obtained the above
tools you are ready to begin to change
IC chips. Plug in your soldering iron
and let it get hot.
If possible, I recommend that you
practice on an old PC board before you
try to make an actual repair.
Using your pin cutters, carefully cut
all the pins on the chip at the point
where they meet the chip. The black
box-like part should then be removed
leaving Just the pins in the board.
With your needle nose pliers in one
hand and your soldering iron in the
other, heat the pins near the point
where they meet the board and pull them
out of the board with the pliers. You
Just need to heat them enough so they
are easily removed. Don't pull them out
forcefully as you may cause trace
damage on the board.
Now you should have the chip and its
pins totally removed. The only thing
left is solder in all the holes. The
solder is easily removed by using your
hand-held solder vacuum and your
soldering iron.
With your soldering iron in one hand
and your solder vacuum in the other, .
touch the pad on the board (the hole '
with the solder in it) with your iron
for about two seconds or until the
solder liquifies. At the moment the
solder liquifies, touch it with your
vacuum and push the button to suck it
u~
all face the same way. Carefully insert
the chip into the holes on the board.
Hold the chip in place with your finger
and turn the board over. Slightly bend
a few pins on either side of the chip
so that it doesn't fall out of the
board.
You are now ready to solder the chip
into the board. This operation must be
done carefully to avoid damaging the
board or the chip. You don't want to
overheat the chip so follow this rule;
never touch the pin with your soldering
iron for more than three seconds. Touch
the tip of your iron at the point where
the pin meets the pad on the board.
Count, one-thousand-one, one-thousand-
two, apply solder, one-thousand-three,
remove soldering iron. When you apply
solder, apply it to the pin and the pad
at the same time. Don't apply it to the
tip of the iron. Do not apply too much
or too little solder. The solder should
liquify instantly and flow through the
hole to the other side.
When deciding Just how much solder to
use, compare your Job to the factory
Job on the same board. Your goal is to
make yours look as good as theirs.
Finally, dip your brush in the
alcohol and clean the solder side of
the board removing any flux or residue
from the board. The solder connections
should shine. The final product should
appear as though the chip was never
changed. If it doesn't, keep practicing
until you get it right!
The routine outlined above may be
used for exchanging other components on
a board (resistors, capacitors,
crystals, etc.), as well as !C's. This
procedure must be done correctly if you
want to be successful in board repair.
Electrical connections are, as you must
know, crucial to the proper operation
of electronic components.
:
This procedure takes some practice 'so
don't feel bad if you mess up at first.
Keep at it until you get it right.
Now, check all the traces to be
certain there are no breaks or cracks.
Dip your brush in the alcohol and clean
the board on both sides. Allow the
alcohol to dry completely. Don't use
too much alcohol on the brush, it will
take that much longer to dry. The board
should look like it never had an IC in
it at this point.
You are now ready to insert the new
IC. Be certain the notch on the chip is
facing in the right direction. Comparte
it with other chips in the row. They
ENNIS
CONVERSION TIPS
By Jim Ennis
Jim Ennis Video Repair
Salisbury, MD
Cosmetics
Tnis month we'll talk more about
cosmetics. Remember, we want this
conversion to look like a new game.
Since we have already discussed control
panel paint and decals last month, that
leaves us with the glass.
There are two options for the front
or monitor glass. The first, of course,
O c t
c,
b e r
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3 )
is to use the old glass. If it is
glass, not plexi, you can scrape off
the paint, then repaint a black border.
The other way to go is your local
glass dealer, pick a piece of 1/4" or
1/8" plexi that they can cut to the
exact size. All you have to do then is
paint a black border. It is sometimes
advantageous to keep the original
glass. (I kept an Atari DIG DUG glass
once, and a week later a customer had
one vandalized and broke the front
glass. It was nice to have one in stock
for the price of the replacement
plexi.)
A few kits such as Nintendo VS.
series will supply you with a new front
glass.
Now for the top marquee glass. Most
kits supply this in plexi but never in
the right size! I use an inexpensive
plexiglass cutter. Using the old glass,
mark where you want to make your cuts.
Then with a straight edge, scribe the
plexi several times, the deeper the cut
- the easier it is to break (without
cracking) the new glass.
After it is scribed hold it over a
straight edge such as a table edge,
press firmly and it should break
straight on your scribe.
Another method I use is with a Black
& Decker workmate bench. Simply tighten
the plexi on the seam and break it off
at your scribe. Some kits such as
SAVAGE BEES by Memetron, give you a
decal type sticker. In this case, use a
piece of clear plexi and apply the
decal as you would the side decals.
(See last month's S*TJ -Volume 7, #4).
If you are doing a SAVAGE BEES kit,
here is a warning. The edge connector
pinout labels pin 22 and Z as +12
common. This is not a ground! It is
tied directly to +12vdc on the board.!
See you next month with more tips.
~
ML•RPHV
You can't win.
You can't break even.
You can't even quit the game.
STAR*TECH Journal
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DATA EAST
CASSETTE SYSTEM:
Operation & Maintenance
One of the most important components
of this system is the Cassette deck, as
it transfers the actual game program
data from the tape to the logic boards,
Consequently, regular maintenance to
the cassette deck is advisable to
ensure a long trouble free life,
THEORY OF OPERATION
Three leaf switches detect the
presence and correct orientation of the
tape, When the tape is inserted
correctly, the tape is rewound at high
speed to the beginning of the tape,
where the BOT/EQT sensor detects the
clear header tape, The tape is then
wound forward at a constant speed for
data to be read.
As the data is stored on the tape in
sections, the cassette deck reads the
tape in sections and stops the tape to
verify the data. If the data is
correct, the deck will then read the
next sect ion,
If the data is faulty or read
incorrectly, the deck will rewind to
the beginning of that section and
attempt to read it again. If it fails
seven times in re-reading a section of
data, the machine will reset and
display a cassette error message.
When the tape has been fully read,
the tape is rewound to the beginning of
the tape, ready for the next data
transfer,
GENERAL FAULTS
Data may be corrupted from a data
tape in one of several ways:
1. TAPE HEAD FAULT. The tape head
must be clean and correctly positioned.
2. DRIVE MECHANISM FAULT. Data must
read at correct speed otherwise data is
not accepted by the logic boards.
3. P.C.B. FAULT. Tape head amplifier
or motor drive electronics may be
faulty causing too small a signal or
corruption of data.
4. TAPE FAULT. The data on the tape
■ay be corrupted due to exposure to
strong magnetic fields, inadequate
handling or storage, or misuse. Solle
tapes may be too tightly wound and so
cause the motor to operate slOMer,
causing the data to be r-eJected.
GENERAL MAINTENANCE
Once every month or two, clean the
tape head with a cotton swab soaked in
denatured alcohol. Once every 12 to 15
110nths, the deck should have the rubber
drive wheels replaced, the speed
calibrated, and the tape head adJusted,
This is preventive maintenance that
can be done by Data East should you not
have the necessary test equipment.
This service is NOT covered under your
lifetime warranty~
CASSETTE ERROR CODE INFORMATION
Error Code
Solution
01
1,8,9,3
82
3,4,5,
3,4,5
3,4,5
2,3
83
04
32
33
5
8,9,4
52
58
3,4,5
6,7,8
59
SOLUTIONS
1. Check the tape and module game
ntllle to ensure they are properly
matched,
2. Clean the tape deck head with
alcohol and cotton swab.
3. Change the cassette tape,
4, Change the cassette deck,
5. If error persists, change the BIO
board.
6. Check the tape deck connector.
7. Check the key module connector.
8, Check the tape to ensure side 'A'
is facing up,
9. Check the tape to ensure that the
tape is on the spool opposite the
letter 'A', if not, advance the tape
manually onto the correct spool with a
screwdriver.
~
RO □ T·
TI-E PLAYER
By John 'Root' Pilarchik
Pennsauken, NJ
A 110nthly analysis of pinball
machines cuurently out on the street
from strictly a player's point of view.
EIGHT BALL DELUXE by Bally has to be
one of the best machines to come along
in recent years, First to be introduced
was the original EIGHT BALL which was a
sharp machine. Next came the EIGHT BALL
DRUXE Model which, in my opinion, out
classes Just about every machine that I
October
l'385
(4)
have played to date.
Flipper skill, not luck, is the key
to succeed in hitting on this machine.
I myself usually favor a machine which
features the standard two flippers,
hONever, EIGHT BALL DELUXE has a third
flipper located on the far left side at
the midway point of the machine
(directly across from the Deluxe
targets), which can benefit the player
who possesses the proper flipper
skills, By using the appropriate
strategy and shooting the ball up the
left side, you can work your way up to
the Free Ball and then onto the
Special,
Next, the left side features the Bank
Shot where you can work your way up
from 5,000 points and also a Special.
The key characteristic of this machine
is the Deluxe targets located on the
right side, By knocking down all the
targets twice and hitting the Eight
Ball, you will succeed in obtaining
another game in addition to lighting up
another letter on the back glass t01o1ard
spelling the word 'DRUXE', which, once
accomplished, will award you three Free
Salles. This feature keeps the players
endeavoring to spell out D-E-L-U-X-E
which means that the machine gets
plenty of playing time. These letters
on the back glass remain lit game after
gtllle until the full word 'DaUXE' is
spelled out and then this process is
repeated.
Example:
A player has been at the machine for
a period of time and has accomplished
the letters 'DELUX' before retiring.
Another player comes along and has only
the remaining letter 'E' to succeed in
receiving three Free Games. This player
will attempt to gain this last letter,
spending however much time he feels
necessary in trying to obtain this
goal; and so the cycle goes,,,
Of all the games that have passed
through the local establishments, this
particular machine appears to be the
finest and busiest of all, There was a
time when you could find this machine
almost everywhere, but now it's getting
10re difficult to-find this machine to
play. To me, it seems a waste to allow
a sharp machine like this to pass
through the doors.
Another machine of Baily's that
offers similar fun and reward is
FRONTIER. A fine characteristic of this
11achine is the variety of ways to hit
on Specials which keeps the true
players interest and also, bonus points
accumulated remain through the entire
game,
Although, as I stated before (see
last month -S*TJ Vo17, No4), I
preferred a three game interval of
scores for hitting games, this machine
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