Star Tech Journal

Issue: 1982-February - Vol 3 Issue 12

S
B. Defective diode off the flyback.
C. Defective focus control.
D. Defective picture tube (CRT).
4. Picture not bright enough:
A . If the CRT voltages are present, the picture
tube is probably bad. The surest way to
cure this on an X-Y monitor is to replace
the picture tube (CRT).
B. Weak 90 volt supply from the EHT power
supply.
C. Loose wire to socket of CRT for G2
voltage.
12. Hazy blob of light that shimmers on the
screen:
A. Open secondary on flyback winding.
B. Failure of some. component in the high
voltage section.
13. Corners of the picture are missing: :
A. Yoke is too far back on the picture tube
neck.
14. Picture is too far up, down, or not centered
properly:
A. Metallic yoke tabs need to be adjusted.
15. A shadowy image of the game remains on the
screen, even after monitor is off:
5. Silvery effect to the white lines, or picture
A. Picture tube has burnt phosphor.
looks dim, washed out:
A. If the CRT voltages are present, the picture
tube is probably bad. The surest way to 16. 2-amp fuses keep blowing:
A. Check the large heat-sinked power tran-
cure this on an X-Y monitor is to replace
sistors.
the picture tube (CRT).
B. Check D608 and D708.
6. Increasing brightness causes an increase in
C. Check semiconductors, especially the
picture size and weakens focus:
transistors in the "X" and " Y" amplifiers.
A. For the most part, this is normal in X-Y
D
.
Bad
yoke.
monitors. But if this should occur at normal
viewing levels, either:
17. Video information is distorted; letters and
• The CRT is defective.
figures are "crinkly"-like crumpled paper,
• The high voltage rectifier is weak.
and it shakes slightly:
• Or the high voltage circuitry has poor
A. Bad 90 volt power being supplied by the
regulation.
EHT unit. If everything looks good, check
the electrolytics.
7. Picture rapidly blinks on and off:
A. Internal short in the picture tube ( arcing).
B. The regulator control (R905) may need
8. A dot on the middle of the screen-Red LED
is turned on Oocated on the deflection board):
A . The"X" and "Y" signals are not making it
into the monitor.
B. Check cabling, jacks, and logic boards.
C. "X" and "Y'' amplifier failure. See Number
1 above and check the fases first.
9. Monitor won't turn on:
A . Open fuse(s).
B. A



defect in the power supply; check:
Fuse(s).
Transistors.
Open fusible resistor.
C. Check jack to make certain all pins are
obtaining their voltage from the other
game circuitry.
D . Check for loose foil, especially by DlOO.
10. Blown 5 amp fuses:
A. Caused by bad luck. Change fuses.
B. If they keep blowing, check all power
transistors that are heat-sinked on the side
(as in the 19" version) or the bottom (as in
the l 3" version) of the monitor.
11. Extremely bright picture; spider-web like
retrace lines floating around on the picture:
A . Defective "Z" amplifier circuitry; check:
• The brightness and contrast controls.
• For peeled foil on the deflection board.
• Semiconductors, etc.
B. See symptom 4, diagnosis "B" and "C"
ONLY. A bad EHT power supply or loose
G2 wire can cause the same thing.
adjusting.
• On the Wells Gardner monitor, the
anode voltage is supposed to read
14.SKV High Voltage. That's 14,500
volts with the beam current at zero.
R905 adjusts this output voltage. To
read this voltage, your meter needs a
separate high voltage probe. Follow the
directions EXACTLY as stated with
the literature that comes with the probe.
If you don't, or you touch something
you shouldn't, you're dead. If this scares
you, have someone qualified ( a techni-
cian) perform this adjustment for you.
Better SAFE than sorry.
• In the case of the Electrohome monitor,
the adjustment is complex and, of course,
potentially DANGEROUS. Basically,
the Electrohome anode voltage from
the "flyback" and rectifier is supposed
to be set at 12,000 volts with the beam
current at zero. That's right -
THOUSANDS of volts! To read this
voltage, your meter needs a separate
high voltage probe. Follow the directions
EXACTLY as stated with the literature
that comes with the probe. If you don't
or you touch something you shouldn't,
you're dead. If this scares you, have
someone qualified ( a technician) perform
this adjustment for ·you. Better SAFE
than sorry.
If you are still unsure, it may be best if
you call Electrohome at (519) 744-
7111 and obtain exact information from
one of their staff engineers.
* TJ FEBRUARY 198215
*
EDUCATION
is the key to success in
any technical career and
especially the pinball and
video game repair
business. Now you can
learn - not only practical
know-how - but also a
solid background in
electronics and
microprocessor
technology. This
knowledge will enable
you to keep abreast of
this fast changing
business. At E.I.B. we
offer courses at all levels.
Day and eve~ing courses
available.
For further
information
& application:
*
ELECTRONIC
INSTITUTE
OF BROOKLYN
4823 Ave. 'N'
Brooklyn, NY 11234
*
*
212/377-0369
(collect)
S
* T J FEBRUARY 1982 16
SERVICE NOTES
AATOM
AMUSEMENT
COMPANY
13470 Daffodil Way, Chino, California 9171 O
ASTEROIDS UPDATE KIT
02 Version - $22.50 Special
01 Version - $32.50 Special
This Memory Update allows the saucer to shoot more accurately
immediately when it appears on the screen.
SUPER MOONCRESTA KIT- $120.00
Convert your "Mooncresta" to the new "Super Mooncresta"
which is a much faster and superior game.
Easy installation - just plug in 8 memory chips.
*
SUPER GAWIAN KIT- $75.00
This Memory Update Kit increases the speed and difficulty of the
game.
Revitalize player interest and collections.
*
STAR CASTLE SPEED-UP KITS - $45.00
This update makes the game tougher for the experienced players
without hurting the beginner by progressively increasing the
speed of the game.
MISSILE COMMAND UPDATE KIT- $15.00
EAGLE UPDATE KIT- $15.00
This plug in memory chip will increase the difficulty of the
docking portion of the game and create a new challenge for your
players.
DONKEY KONG UPDATE KIT - $75.00
* Increases the difficulty of the game so players don't hang on
the game, reaching very high scores.
* Easy plug-in installation
* Revitalize player interest and collections
POP.MAN KIT
* Update your Pac-Man with this new disappearing maze
featuring Popeye and six warp tunnels.
* Increase collections and player interest.
* Easy plug-in installation
BILL CHANGERS, REJECTORS,
AND COIN DOORS
BY TODD ERJCKSON,
SUMMIT AMUSEMENT, ST. PAUL, MN
Reward
As we all know, a bill changer should be
bolted, chained, and/or weighted down. This
can't always be done. At times, securing to a
wooden wall or floor is not the complete
answer. Picking the lock or prying your way
into a new Rowe bill changer is difficult and a
waste of time.
Reward - up to 6,600 quarters for merely
tipping the changer forward! The money will
go into the pay-out dish. Just what the
operator needs today!
What can you do to protect yourself after
spending almost $3,000.00 for this fine piece
of equipment? A heavy piece of foam rubber
between the top of the hopper and cover will
solve this problem.
CoinCo 5300 Rejectors
I have been using CoinCo 5 300 rejectors in
my Midway doors for a long time. They have
turned out to be more trouble than good.
They fly open if the door is kicked! I have had
several cases where they have taken slugs
and I've had to replace the 5300 with metal
rejectors. If the metal rejector is properly
adjusted, it will wipe Canadian coins, making
the 5 300 unnecessary.
Williams Coin Doors
In the northern border states, we have a
problem with Canadian coins. Williams, as
always, makes a good coin door, with a few
minor problems. The metal coin mech re-
jector, if properly adjusted, will wipe the
Canadian coin. One minor adjustment to the
door will give the correct wipe; bending the
reject actuating arms down so they make
contact with the rejector is all that is needed.
POP-MAN WITH DISAPPEARING MAZE
6 chip set - $120.00 Special
POP.MAN WITHOUT POPEYE
4 chip set - $80.00
"ALL KITS ARE UNCONDITIONALLY GUARANTEE" FOR 30 DAYS."
CALL 714-628-5490
Coin Mech Rejectors
Canadian coins have been a major problem
in the northern states. Properly adjusting the
rejector will enable the rejector to wipe the
coin or slug. Back the magnet adjusting screw
out first (turn it left). 'Insert a coin in the
rejector. The coin will stop on the magnet.
Turn the screw in until the coin passes.
Continue turning the screw about ¼ turn
further. With the proper travel of the rejector
arm, this will eliminate Canadian coin and
slug service calls.

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