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PRACTICAL PIANO TUNING
By ALEXANDER HART
Formerly with Steinway & Sons Tuning Department, Instructor in
Piano Tuning, Teachers College, Columbia University, N. Y.
Registered Member of the
National Association of Piano Tuners
CHAPTER 28-Piano Tuning in Review
No. 50
Action regulating today may be con-
sidered a checking up here and there,
when the piano is a few years old. Old
instruments plus moth-eaten felts, after
replacement, definitely require the serv-
ices of an action regulator. A contrib-
uting factor to the serviceman's knowl-
edge in this respect is a Service Manual
of Instructions, put out by Jesse French
& Sons division of H. & A. Selmer, Inc.,
Elkhart, Ind.
Now and then, there is a problem with
the regulating button rail, on account
of its warping. However, it does not
happen often. When one finds a con-
dition of this kind (especially in very
old uprights), take particular notice
that the regulating screw cannot be
turned upward without loosening it en-
tirely—This situation is noticeable when
the hammer travel is too premature;
that is, the hammer, instead of travel-
ing towards the string one-eighth and
then "let off" on escapement, it is just
the reverse. One may find this travel
seven-sixteenths, hardly sufficient to get
any kind of repetition.
No. 51
One
lating
higher
(a)
way to do this when the regu-
buttons cannot be turned any
is to:
remove the regulating button rail
entirely when the action is out
of the case.
(b) note how much the rail must
be raised—it may need only one-
sixteenth of an inch—one must
be the judge—and be careful not
to saw too much as one may
weaken the rail, but a slight
amount will do no harm. (This
is better than reducing the felt
on buttons).
(c) take it slow and easy when slid-
ing the rail past bridles, not to
catch the regulating buttons. Use
the same carefulness when re-
placing the rail.
The screw holes on the rail will de-
cide where to make saw cut. Remove
THE MUSIC TRADE REVIEW, APRIL, 1951
wood with a small knife. After the
rail is in place, should a few hammers
block, i. e., stay against the string, you
know what to do. Turn down regu-
lating button until hammer "lets off".
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
No. 52
Causes of Silent Keys
Hammer shank broken.
Jack spring out of its socket.
Jack spring broken.
Jack flange pin too tight.
Jack flange unglued from whippen.
Jack not seating under hammer
butt.
Whippen flange pin too tight.
When a key is broken in half.
some assorted flange pins, two or three
hammer shanks and the same amount of
various butts.
No. 1 is a broken shank. Put in
a new screw. Don't bore out the old
one, only the hammer head. It is good
policy to carry some extra treble ham-
mers, for one never knows when one
comes in handy.
No. 2—Never be without a jack
spring. These are not easy to make,
and when there is need for replacement
clean out the socket, and be careful the
spring is so adjusted as not to jump out.
Remarks
A silent note to the pianist or anyone
playing the piano spells aggravation.
It does not take many notes that do
not work right to put the keyboard out
of commission. Faulty repetition and
sticky keys should never happen, when
the owner has piano servicing by con-
tract.
No. 53
To Remedy Silent Keys
Items listed above should be thor-
oughly checked, and all regulating re-
quirements such as: hammer blow, lost
motion, correct "let off", touch for the
right depth, and pedals should be con-
sidered.
Speaking about service in general
(and this is only a suggestion) it is
not good practice to take money in
advance unless one can be sure that
appointments will be kept, and all the
promises will be lived up to.
My own personal advice is to have
an agreement advantageously to both
either written or otherwise, but do not
take any fee for advance service. You
may be sure if your work proves sat-
icfactory the customer is yours. Collect
each time you do some work.
Let us proceed with our remedy for
key trouble. Reverting back to No.
52, one must always be prepared to
carry material and the tools to repair
minor mishaps. A few jack springs.
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