Mechanical Memories Magazine

Issue: 2012-December - Issue 71

I sanded gently the rough parts that were beyond repair and purchased a liquid by
Ronseal called Wet Rot Wood Hardener. Apparently, this soaks into the soft crumbly
wood and hardens it. I had nothing to lose, so I used the whole can just to make sure,
brushed on coat after coat and left for a few days. The time and effort (and money)
was well spent, as the top panel was solid. I sanded to shape, and despite losing
approximately a sixtieth of an inch from the front lip of the panel it hardly notices.
Once the wood repairs were complete, the whole cabinet was sanded using 60
grit, then 120, followed by 500 for super smoothness. Forgot to mention the rear panel
of the case was not original, and besides, was so badly damaged that I had no choice
but to scrap it and make another panel.
The last step in restoring any cabinet is always the most satisfying: waxing and
staining. In past projects I've used one of the Ronseal liquid stainers, but find this too
harsh and soaks deep into the wood, so any change of mind on the colour is a no-no
unless you want to sand off half an inch layer of wood! I now use the Briwax Original
Wax Polish, which is natural beeswax with a hint of colour stain. For the R&W I used
the Teak shade as I felt this closely matched the original. Having rubbed the wax in
and left for a few minutes I began polishing off the excess to achieve a deep shine of
natural wood grain. Job done.
However, one part of this restoration was to prove a challenge. My allwin was
missing a major part, the payout knob. Having searched the internet for days and
contacting other collectors for any spares, it dawned on me that there was little chance
of finding the missing, essential component. The payout knob is of course a VIP (very
important part)!
Having looked at several photos of the missing knob, I made the decision to
make one. I considered using wood as I have fairly good woodworking skills and
thought this would be the easier option but after further investigation I felt that using
even hardwood it wouldn't have the strength to withstand the rigorous handling it
would no doubt receive from players. So I started to look at making the item from
metal. With absolutely no skills or experience of metalwork I decided very early on
that purchasing a solid block of metal, and filing, cutting and drilling to shape was a
,definite no go.
I began researching the internet on the possibility of casting the piece from liquid
metal. Unfortunately, all home metal casting involved an expensive furnace that had to
reach very high temperatures to melt most metals to liquid form, also the dangers
involved scared me off the idea.
I then remembered a friend of mine who made chess pieces as a hobby by
pouring metal into moulds, something he did at home. So a quick phone call was made
to my friend and Eureka, he tells me about Prince August (yes, I asked him the same
question, but it's nothing to do with Royalty)! It' s a metal that is specially made for
hobbyists because it melts at a lower temperature than other metals. In fact, a standard
home cooker hob provides enough heat.
So I gathered together all the materials required: Johnson's Baby Powder, a tin of
Heinz Spaghetti (bear with me on this ... ), pieces of wood and Prince August Metal.
The wood was for the mould; however, searching the internet I couldn't find anyone
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using wood as a mould which made me wonder if there was a reason why. Maybe it
couldn't take the sheer heat of molten metal being poured into it and would possibly
burst into flames . The common method of casting metal is to use a form of wet sand
that has an original object pushed into it forming the mould. But as I didn't have the
original knob and the sand method looked like a lot of messing around, and time
consuming, I opted to take a chance with my wooden method.
I managed to source the measurements for the original knob from other collectors
and owners of the Ruffler & Walker all win range, from which I made a few rough
sketches. I then proceeded to cut out the wooden mould. The cutting was done using
standard drill bits to drill three different diameter holes. The top widest would be for
the handle (42mm dia x 30mm depth), middle neck (12mm dia x 10mm depth), and
the lower neck (10mm dia x 5mm depth). This lower and middle neck would
eventually be drilled to allow a steel spindle to be inserted.
At this point I imagined having the tedious task of hunting down the correct size
spindle that could slide perfectly through the hole in the chromed flange on the front
of the all win cabinet. However, as luck would have it, my first tool draw I opened had
an old handle from a broken G clamp, and yes would you believe it, it was the exact
diameter required. If only I was as lucky with the Lottery!
The inner walls of the top hole would need to be filed to create the flutes around
the finished knob. I made the mould in two parts with wooden dowels as guides to
ensure correct alignment when put together. Once cut to shape, both parts were sanded
finely to smooth out any nasty scratches on the wood, although I wasn't too worried
about the surface of the finished knob being rough (most old mouldings appear crude
anyway). It was more to ensure the casting would come out of the mould easily.
The distinctive payout knob that can be found on all R& Wal/wins.
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Future scanning projects are planned by the International Arcade Museum Library (IAML).

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