Mechanical Memories Magazine

So dig out your old files, hacksaw, drills etc. and have a good hunt round in your might
come in handy one day pile of crud, and I'll bet you'll find something that will do the
job. Some parts that require some skill to make would be better off obtained from the
'Allwin Spares' section in the Mechanical Memories Magazine. Incidentally, I once
made an allwin out of complete and utter junk that had been lying about in my garage
for years, but I'll tell you about that another time.
Going back to the cabinet, here's a few tips you might find useful. Strip off! No,
not you, strip off as much of the crud as possible with paint and varnish stripper. Next,
wash and scrub the timber down with course wire wool and white spirit, then leave till
bone dry. Assuming the cabinet is oak, I suggest in using a wood scraper first and then
carry on with various grades of sandpaper, or if you can get it 'Corisil abrasive paper'.
It's a lot tougher! Start rubbing down with the grain of the wood using the course grade
36 - 40 or 50 going up to the finer grades 80 - 100 - 160 and above to finish. I know all
this may sound boring, and it is boring, but remember, preparation is the most important
task of all.
When you are satisfied with your rubbing down (and I never am), I suggest you
stain it to a chosen colour, say, medium oak. This will help hide some of the old
blemishes in the wood and give it some life. I find the spirit based stains are the best
ones to use as they penetrate deep into the wood. So if you accidentally knock your
cabinet, you won't lose the colour, unlike the all in one stain varnishes (avoid 'em). But
please note: make sure there are no sanding marks in the wood, especially across the
grain. The stain will make them look terrible, and all your hard work will be ruined.
• For the finishing coats, try Ronseal satin finish. Three thin coats should do it, or
four if you want, but no more. Rub down between coats when properly dry using the
same paper they use for matting down car paint (used dry). It's super fine and gives a
fabulous finish. After you've applied all the coats, leave for at least a week to harden
off, then (this is the good bit) get some proper spirit based furniture wax (you know, the
orangy yellow stuff in a flat tin mother used to use). NOT SILICONE. Then, put a nice
lump onto some 00-00 fine wire wool and very gently rub with the grain over the wood,
and then buff. Do not overdo this procedure. What this does is remove any bits of dust
that may have settled into the wet varnish when applying, and takes away that new fresh
look. It also gives a nice feel to the touch and creates a good base for future waxing.
So there you have it! I have written this mainly to encourage those who are a bit
wary about tackling these jobs. I say to you - find a wreck and have a go! Patience is the
key word here. Don't rush it, there's no hurry. Make it a project, and you should end up
with something to be proud of. And who knows? Even the wife might like it!!
Must go now, gotta start on the kitchen!
Terry Selby
Page 8