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By Terry Selby
As a restorer of certain types of slot machines, I thought for a change I would break
away from the stories of fairs and arcades, to give you a candid version of the
challenges, frustrations and the testing of one's patience, the results from the restoration
of these old mechanical marvels. Those of you who have trodden along this path will
know exactly what I mean, and to the novice, prepare to be initiated. In the beginning,
your enthusiasm is at a high, as you roll up your sleeves to do battle with that hideous
piece of junk on your workbench. It's an allwin, so let's make a start.
Step one. Examine the wreck in front of you. Try not to be disappointed when
pieces start to fall off while doing your inspection. This is quite normal, and should not
deter you from your task.
Step two. Check for the dreaded woodworm. Nasty fellows! If there is any sign of a
visit, do not despair. There's plenty of stuff on the market to zap 'em with, and if they
have already cleared off, pump the holes anyway, just to be on the safe side. You will
probably find that the cabinet has taken quite a thrashing during its lifetime, but
underneath all those coats of varnish, paint and other unknown gunge, there is usually
some really nice woodwork that would benefit from some careful polishing. I'd like to
bring to your attention what I mean by 'careful polishing'. There is a distinct difference
between the lovely patina of old wax polished wood that should not be stripped in any
circumstances, to the horrible crud build up that hangs on many of these old machine
cabinets. If this is the case, then strip it right back to the bear wood, and take your time,
don't rush it! Remember, the more effort you put in, the better the finish.
Step three. Examine the mechanism. More often than not, many parts will probably
be stiff to operate, or seized up altogether with rust. Don't despair, I've had 'em virtually
welded together with the stuff. I find the best way of dealing with the problem is to
carefully remove the mechanism from the back of the game board and submerge it in a
bowl of paraffin. Leave it for a week if necessary, we're in no hurry. It takes as long as it
takes! After the paraffin has done its work, and with a little bit of gentle persuasion,
you'll find that you should be able to dismantle the parts. If not, as a last resort there's
always nitro-glycerine. (The wife's suggestion, not mine). Should you be worried about
remembering how it all goes back together, then do plenty of drawings and mark
everything. Place the parts in a box to keep them safe. To remove the rust and clean up
the metal, nothing works better than wire wool. It removes skin as well, so be careful of
your fingers!
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