Coin Slot

Issue: 1982 September 091

Coin Slot Magazine - #091 - 1982 - September [International Arcade Museum]
petroleum jelly to both the teeth of the ratchet wheel
and its shaft, and to the teeth and pawls of the main
gear. Offer the main gear to the main shaft with the
ratchet pawls facing the ratchet wheel, and push it
gently until the pawls strike the ratchet wheel. Using a
button hook, work your way around the main gear pulling
The Zero Ohms Test, described in a previous article, is
one way to isolate such a problem. Other useful test
each of the pawls clear of the ratchet wheel. By
applying downward pressure on the main gear the
pawls will snap back against the edge of the ratchet
wheel, where they should remain until they are all
switch(es) must first be closed or shorted in some way
pulled free, when the main gear will drop home against
examples of such circuits (including one
methods will be discussed in a future article.
(NOTE: The tests just described will not work if the
"hold on" circuit contains a disabling switch(es) in
"series" with it, as noted earlier. In these cases, that
prior to performing the tests.)
This concludes the specific discussion of the
relay
the ratchet wheel. You may have to work your way
"hold
on"
circuit,
however,
other
employing the timing function) will be il
around the gear several times, as some pawls oc
lustrated when an example of circuitry performing a
casionally snap back inside the ratchet wheel.
complex game function is discussed. The only major
Apply petroleum jelly to the other two gears and
pinions, noting that one gear has a long pinion and the
difference between "hold on" circuits providing the as
surance function and the timing function is that the
other has a short pinion. You will also notice that there
are three bushed holes left, a small one for the fan
shaft and two for the pinions.
In the hold farthest from the fan shaft hole, install the
gear with the short pinion with the pinion end down
(facing the bearing plate). Next, install the gear with the
long pinion in the hole closest to the fan shaft hole, this
time with the gear end facing down. Lastly, insert the
fan shaft into the remaining hole.
Install any washers onto the main shaft as were
originally fitted, and then place the bottom bearing
plate in position taking care to see that each shaft
enters its bushing, and the three tubular spacers enter
their holes in the upper bearing plate. When the plates
are together hold them fast as you turn the assembly
over and install the three screws. Observe that each
gear and pinion turns smoothly and has slight up and
down movement. The main gear should not have so
much up and down play that the pawls are in danger of
dropping off the ratchet wheel. If there is evidence of
this peril, remove the bottom plate and install additional
shims on the main shaft.
When proper movement and play is secured, the fan
can be fitted to its shaft and soldered in place. Correct
positioning of the fan is such that the top of the fan is
flush with the fan shaft, though it is more accurate to
place the fan as close as possible to the top of the
clock without actually striking it.
Applying a few drops of light oil to each bushing will
complete the job, and you need only add a drop or two
a few times each year to keep your clock ticking new
life into your slot machine.
Pinball Troubleshooting
Continued from page 39
tests the relay will energize and remain so with nothing
latter usually employ normally closed score motor
switches as the "drop out" switch(es).
In October, Russ Jensen will continue his descriptions
of the typical circuit configurations used in games and
how they operate. He will discuss relays and their
functions, and a complex game function to tie together
what has been covered in the previous articles
Correction
In the August issue an error was made in Russ
Jensen's article "Pinball Troubleshooting, Part 6 Con
tinued." Some copy was inadvertently left out of the
second paragraph under the heading "Voltage Drop,"
first column on page 46. This paragraph should have
read:
If, on the other hand, any or all of these components
have unwanted resistance (denoted by the small "r*s"
in the boxes in Figure 4) they will produce a corre
sponding voltage drop(represented by the smalTe's").
For example, if the rollover switch had a resistance
"r(4)," it would have a corresponding voltage drop,
"e(4)," across it, equal to the current, "I," multiplied by
"r(4)." The same idea would hold true for any of the
other circuit elements by multiplying their'Ys" by "I" to
get their respective voltage drops ("e's").
We apologize to Russ and our readers for this error
and hope it has caused no inconvenience.
If you are moving...
The Coin Slot staff would like everyone to continue to
receive this interesting and informative magazine on a
timely basis. We don't want you to miss even one copy.
So if you are planning to move, please send us a
change of address notification as quickly as possible.
The Coin Slot is mailed the 20th of each month so
else happening. This means that the device that
that each issue will arrive in your mailbox sometime
should be activated by the relay (such as the pop
within the first ten days of the following month, the
.com
m
:
u
never opening the "drop out"
this occurs, that
u If se
from switch.
m
d
-
device, and the relay
contact
activating
it, (bumper
e
e
ad example)
ad should be checked.)
o the
l
c
relay SW #2 n in
r
a
.
If either
above tests are performed and
Dow of // the
ww
w
:
indicate the
http "hold on" circuit is not operating at all, the
bumper in our example) is not operating at all, and thus
"drop out" switch on the device activated by the relay
(and any intervening quick disconnect connectors)
should be checked until an open circuit is discovered.
SEPTEMBER, 1982
© The International Arcade Museum
month of publication. To assure that your change of
address arrives in time to be programmed into our
computer and changed on our mailing labels for the
next month's copy of The Coin Slot, we need to receive
your change of address by the 15th of the month. So if
you're planning to move in the future, don't delay. Send
us your change of address right away so that you can
look in your mailbox for your copy of The Coin Slot the
same time each month without interruption or delay.
THE COIN SLOT —47
http://www.arcade-museum.com/
Coin Slot Magazine - #091 - 1982 - September [International Arcade Museum]
APPY SEZ:
"Sevens full don't beat aces full."
By Larry Lubliner
Dear Pappy:
My husband and I are restoring a 1939 Exhibit
LONGCHAMPS. So far, we have restored the mech
anism and assembled it to working order. I'm now
ready to begin work on the cabinet. Can you tell me any
place I might obtain information on what it looked like
originally?
Do you have any information on the approximate
value of the machine?
R.B.
West Alexander, PA
Dear R.B.:
What a lovely console! Exhibit may have done a
three year run on the machine, but I doubt it. LONG-
CHAMP was made in 1937. I have sent you, under
separate cover, a picture of the machine and hope it is
of help.
As far as a dollar value is concerned, thaf s a tough one.
I would say that $ 1,200-$ 1,500 would be a fair price for
a restored piece.
Dear Pappy:
I would hate to see the best part of a magazine die, so
I'm going to ask several questions, some of which may
be of use in your monthly column.
I own an old Mills mechanism that has round payout
levers rather than flat ones, so what?
J.J.J.
Texas
DearJ.J.J.:
Thanks for your kind words. I needed some warm
Dear O.M.S.
You certainly have one of the nicer Daval trade
stimulators. It is called a Reel "21" and was produced
between 1936-1940. Daval produced a series of these
and people seem to be looking to put an entire set
together. If you want to buy one, look to pay $200 to
$400. The instruction card is not easy to find, but you
might check with Bill Whelan at 23 Palmdale Ave., Daly
City, California. Bill is an excellent source for almost
any material pertaining to trade stimulators.
Pappy
fuzzies about now. I will use some of your other
questions in subsequent columns, at least those that I
Dear Pappy:
can answer.
Enclosed are two photos of machines I'd like to find
out more about. When was the round one made? Was
the "Enterprise" peanut machine made by the coffee
grinder company of the same name?
The Mills gooseneck mechanisms had the flat type
of pay fingers. The round pay fingers were initially used
in the earlier LIBERTY and OPERATORS BELLS with a
few sneaking into transition machines. Those are
machines that were made immediately following the
OPERATOR BELLS. They are not common by any
sense, but they are also not extremely rare.
Pappy
Dear Pappy:
Enjoy your column "Pappy Sez." Enclosed are two
com
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photographs of a black jack trade stimulator. Could
you tell me:
Maker?
Age?
What the award card said or where I could obtain a
reproduction?
Any other information would be appreciated.
O.M.S.
Houston, Texas
48 — THE COIN SLOT
© The International Arcade Museum
R.L.
Lincoln, Massachusetts
Dear R.L.
The round machine is called the BOOMER, as is
obvious and was made by Waddel Manufacturing Co.
The probable date is around 1906. The "Enterprise"
peanut machine is a mystery. Holcome and Hoke
made a peanut vender, so perhaps the Enterprise
Coffee Grinder people did also. The date is around
1910.
Perhaps a reader might have some more information
on the peanut machine. If anyone knows anything
definite, please drop me a note. I might even give a
small prize to the person coming up with the best
answer.
Pappy
SEPTEMBER, 1982
http://www.arcade-museum.com/

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