Coin Slot

Issue: 1977 February 025

Coin Slot Magazine - #025 - 1977 - February [International Arcade Museum]
HOW'S YOUR
OLD ALUMINUM?
1825 Freeman Avenue
by
DAVE EVANS
Probably in very sad shape.
are
in
pretty
Cincinnati, Ohio 45214
Yes, most of the old machines we get
poor condition.
The aluminum closely resembles
"Battle-ship gray" - not the shiny, silvery aluminum color we'd like.
But, if you take the time, and have the proper tools and supplies,
you can make most old machines shine better than the day they left
the factory.
Yes, it is a lot of work, but it is well worth it.
Nothing bothers me
more than to buy a "so-called" restored machine -- wonderfully
repainted -- but the aluminum is gray and dingy. While some collec
tors might have better ideas on cleaning the aluminum than I have,
I'd like to give you my experience, and you let the COIN SLOT know
if you have better procedures or better products.
First of all, you must remove the dirt and grease that has accumula
ted over 40-50 years, and try to remove some of the oxides, too.
I
have had the best success with a product called "VAPCO BRITE'
ALUM - a fin and coil cleaner."
This product is available from re
frigeration and air conditioning supply houses.
The servicemen use
it to clean aluminum condensors in air conditioners and refrigera
tion equipment.
paint brush.
Spread the BRITE' ALUM over the surface with a
Let it set for a few minutes, but do not let it dry. Add
more product to keep surface wet.
After about 15 minutes, go over
om
m.c
:
u
m
e
us preferred - on your Dremel
fro -- cup
m type
d brush
-
points, put a little wire
e
e
d
d
loa the .a close
rca spots. Then wash thoroughly, using
n over
grinder and go
w
o
w
D
w
a stiff brush. The
://w red bristle brush you can buy with Bix Stripper is
p
t
t
very handy h for this, as well as paint stripping. Sand out any gouges
the surface with very fine steel wool, rubbing thoroughly all small
cracks and crevices.
If the design is such that you cannot reach all
with No. 180 grit flint cloth.
© The International Arcade Museum
Now, you should be ready to buff.
http://www.arcade-museum.com/
Coin Slot Magazine - #025 - 1977 - February [International Arcade Museum]
The first thing you should do in buffing, is to get a decent buffer. I
did it the hard way with a small bench grinder, but finally invested in
a Baldor No. 333B Buffer. This % HP buffer cost me $150.00, and
is well worth it. You can use 12" wheels, and really lean on it if you
have to.
Check with local machinery dealers, maybe you can even
find a used one.
Next, you should find a decent buffing supply
house, as you will need buffing wheels, compounds etc.
Your local
hardware store just does not carry the commercial grade items you
will need.
The best trick (told to me by foreman of a big buffing department)
is to satin finish the aluminum first, with a product called "Lea
Compound - Greaseless Abrasive Composition for Satin Finishing."
This product is made by Lea Mfg. Co., Waterbury, Ct. You will also
need the black adhesive, too.
Both products come in gr stick, and
must be kept refrigerated. One end of your buffer will be devoted to
satin finishing, the othe/ for final polishing.
wheels for both.
You cannot use the same
First apply the black Lea Adhesive, building up a
thin even coat across the wheel.
apply the Lea Compound.
Let dry for about a minute, then
GOGGLES MUST BE WORN AT ALL
TIMES - the bits of compound will fly.
Let the compound dry for
about 30 seconds, and you are ready to buff.
much pressure -- it is not needed.
re-apply.
Do not apply too
As the Lea Compound wears off,
Turn off motor switch, and as motor slows, apply the
compound -- repeat until you have an even coating. Adhesive is not
necessary - just when you start.
You will be surprised how the
satin finish takes off all the oxiHps and surface imperfections, leav
ing a smooth satin finish that takes much less effort to polish to a high
shine.
Now we go, to the other end of our buffer, and do the high polishing.
Do not use too much buffing compound.
I n fact while you are at the
buffing supply house, get a "Wheel Rake" as this will be needed to
com
.
m
:
u
use learn from experience, and is
from -m you
d
Buffing technique is
something
e
e
load But .a you
hard to describe.
rcad will find the technique that works best.
n
w
o
ww openings in the castings can be dangerous - the
Buffing D
around /w
large
/
:
p
t caught in the hole, and grab the part -- can break the
wheel can
ht get
get the excess buffing compound out of the wheels when it builds up.
casting, or even hurt you!
Be very cautious around any opening over
a few inches square; you don't want a broken arm or something.
© The International Arcade Museum
8
http://www.arcade-museum.com/

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