Coin Slot

Issue: 1977 December 035

Coin Slot Magazine - #035 - 1977 - December [International Arcade Museum]
WATLING ROL-A-TOP
TOTAL RESTORATION
by Ben Romano
After hearing numerous stories on how to properly restore Watling Rol-
A-Tops, I decided to learn how Watling originally created their beautiful
Rol-A-Tops.
After doing considerable research on the subject and
recently completing several Rol-A-Top restorations, I have finally
learned the art of restoring Rol-A-Tops to mint condition.
For the sake of simplicity, I am only going to discuss the cosmetic
preparation of the Rol-ATop metal castings. The wood cabinet and
mechanism restoration will therefore be bypassed in this article.
Hopefully along the way I can pass on a few trade secrets to you to
make the restoration easier. The Rol-ATop that I will be discussing
here is an early model with a coin head, coin front casting with a re
movable horn-of-plenty.
Before I move on, let me pass on my first tip. The secret to a successful
restoration is to do everything you can possibly do yourself. Most
platers are somewhat unfamiliar with slot machine castings, so always
strip the castings myself and tell the platers what I want done to avoid
any possible foul-ups. Some palters use harsh chemicals to clean and
strip off old plating which could attack and severly damage the alu
minum casting. So if you don't know your plater very well and how he
does things, don't take unnecessary chances.
A fellow California
collector had his castings etched beyond repair because of this. The
last time I heard from him the poor guy was still looking for castings.
Armed with this knowledge, let's get to work.
Many people disagree on how the casting was originally finished. Some
believe the coin front and horn-of-plenty were plated, and still others
believe they were painted. In actuality, the coin front and horn-of-plen
.com
m
:
u
ty were "brass flashed". f Flashing
rom -m is us a e type of plating which is much
d
e
thinner and delicate ad
ade With this process, the castings did
o than .ar plating.
l
c
n
w buffing
not require o
D any
ww to achieve shiny luster, whereas, plating did.
w
/
Therefore this was
a much quicker process and cost Watling less. I
/
:
ttp
will go into h
this in more detail a little later on in this article.
Remove the removable horn-of-plenty off your Rol-A-Top and set it
© The International Arcade Museum
7
http://www.arcade-museum.com/
.
Coin Slot Magazine - #035 - 1977 - December [International Arcade Museum]
aside for the time being. Don't forget that it is solid brass and be sure
to emphasize this point to the plater when you take it to him. If you
do not have a removable horn-of-plenty, then all your castings are
aluminum and you need not worry about this. Make sure your plater
is familiar with the flashing process and can flash both aluminum and
brass. Remember, not all platers are created equal. Don't take anything
for granted.
After all the castings are separated from the cabinet, all the old plating
and paint needs to be removed. I clean my castings one of three ways.
The first, if convenient, is to use your plater's glass bead blaster (be
careful though). Even better yet is to use his blaster with the walnut
shells if he has one. Secondly, you can strip old paint off by soaking
your castings in a solution of carbuerator cleaner although this method
isn't very effective. The third and most common way is to use some
paint and varnish remover to strip all the old paint off the castings.
I have found Sears brand of paint and varnish remover most effective
after experimenting with various brands. Using a brush to dab the strip
per on in heavy coats, I wait for 15 minutes to let it do it's job. Then
I use a stainless steel wire bursh to scrub the castings and help the pro
cess. Next I use the hose to wash off all the paint remover. Usually I
repeat this entire process twice to make sure I get all the paint off.
Once the castings are cleaned, I buff the castings myself. Thanks to
Dave Evans of Ohio, I have only nearly killed myself twice while using
my % horsepower buffer wheel. (See February issue of the Coin Slot
for his article on Aluminum preparation.) I use a Lea compound on
the buffer wheel to prepare it for buffing the aluminum castings.
I buff the castings all over this way. Then I prepare the buffing wheel
for further buffing by usine Tripoli grease compound on it before
moving on. This helps pull off the remainder of the Lea compound.
Next I set-up the buffer wheel for further polishing of the aluminum
by applying a bar of green chrome rouge to the wheel. The aluminum
then shines like chrome after one more buffing on the buffing wheel.
.com
m
:
u
m
e
d fro de-mus
e
d
nloa w.arca
w
o
or use a brush
D with
w some whiting compound to really bring out a bright
://w
luster in the ttp
aluminum.
Although this buffing process sounds long
h
After the process of polishing the aluminum on the buffer wheel, I
apply lacquer thinner with a paint brush generously to the castings,
flooding the entire area. This removes any remaining buffing compound
Once the casting is dry, I go over it with a soft turkish towel by hand
and tedious, it actually only takes a few minutes.
© The International Arcade Museum
http://www.arcade-museum.com/

Download Page 9: PDF File | Image

Download Page 10 PDF File | Image

Future scanning projects are planned by the International Arcade Museum Library (IAML).

Pro Tip: You can flip pages on the issue easily by using the left and right arrow keys on your keyboard.