Coin Slot

Issue: 1977 December 035

Coin Slot Magazine - #035 - 1977 - December [International Arcade Museum]
aside for the time being. Don't forget that it is solid brass and be sure
to emphasize this point to the plater when you take it to him. If you
do not have a removable horn-of-plenty, then all your castings are
aluminum and you need not worry about this. Make sure your plater
is familiar with the flashing process and can flash both aluminum and
brass. Remember, not all platers are created equal. Don't take anything
for granted.
After all the castings are separated from the cabinet, all the old plating
and paint needs to be removed. I clean my castings one of three ways.
The first, if convenient, is to use your plater's glass bead blaster (be
careful though). Even better yet is to use his blaster with the walnut
shells if he has one. Secondly, you can strip old paint off by soaking
your castings in a solution of carbuerator cleaner although this method
isn't very effective. The third and most common way is to use some
paint and varnish remover to strip all the old paint off the castings.
I have found Sears brand of paint and varnish remover most effective
after experimenting with various brands. Using a brush to dab the strip
per on in heavy coats, I wait for 15 minutes to let it do it's job. Then
I use a stainless steel wire bursh to scrub the castings and help the pro
cess. Next I use the hose to wash off all the paint remover. Usually I
repeat this entire process twice to make sure I get all the paint off.
Once the castings are cleaned, I buff the castings myself. Thanks to
Dave Evans of Ohio, I have only nearly killed myself twice while using
my % horsepower buffer wheel. (See February issue of the Coin Slot
for his article on Aluminum preparation.) I use a Lea compound on
the buffer wheel to prepare it for buffing the aluminum castings.
I buff the castings all over this way. Then I prepare the buffing wheel
for further buffing by usine Tripoli grease compound on it before
moving on. This helps pull off the remainder of the Lea compound.
Next I set-up the buffer wheel for further polishing of the aluminum
by applying a bar of green chrome rouge to the wheel. The aluminum
then shines like chrome after one more buffing on the buffing wheel.
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aluminum.
Although this buffing process sounds long
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After the process of polishing the aluminum on the buffer wheel, I
apply lacquer thinner with a paint brush generously to the castings,
flooding the entire area. This removes any remaining buffing compound
Once the casting is dry, I go over it with a soft turkish towel by hand
and tedious, it actually only takes a few minutes.
© The International Arcade Museum
http://www.arcade-museum.com/
Coin Slot Magazine - #035 - 1977 - December [International Arcade Museum]
Next comes the masking lacquer, which is to be applied on areas you
don't want to be plated. I use Micro-Stop Knockoff Lacquer and apply
it with an inexpensive acid brush (the type they use to apply soldering
flux.)
Be careful to only apply the lacquer to areas where you don't
want the brass flashing or plating to appear. Make sure you flow it on
instead of brushing it on. In other words, apply it heavily but carefully.
Apply at least two coats, and preferable three. Allow plenty of time
between coats for drying.
We are now ready to take our castings to the plater.
The plater will
first coat the aluminum with either Zincate or Aluminol. This acts
as an adhesive so the plating will stick to the aluminum. Next comes
the nickel plating. After that the castings go into the brass plating tank.
When flashing is done, the castings are only left on the tank for three to
four minutes at most. If they were left in any longer than that, they
would become brass plated and turn orangish in color. This would
mean that they would then have to be buffed in order to bring out
a bright shine. Watling appeared to favor the flashing process, probably
because of the savings in time and money. The only drawback with
the flashing process lies in the fact that flashing only covers the castings
like an onion skin.
It is just a veneer over the metal and would wear
off over the years.
Once the plater completes the flashing, the only thing left for him
to do is to coat the castings with clear lacquer to protect it from tar
nishing. His job in the restoration process is now complete.
Now we are ready to start working again. The stop off lacquer must
be removed proir to painting. Try an X-acto knife or pen knife to
help lift off the stop off lacquer making sure you get it all off. Although
this process can become a bit tedious, it is important.
The painting process comes next.
The Rol-A-Top machine was very
beautiful when
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Watling's origina painting job. The aluminum edges were buffed to
a chrome like appearance while the coins, the eagle, and the name
were brass flashed.
The painted background was very important in
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When it comes to applying the paint, I have found that it is easier
for me to spray my cases in many instances that hand brushing the
© The International Arcade Museum
http://www.arcade-museum.com/

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